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Business & Tech

Bites Nearby: A Second Take on Bubba's

New version of classic diner needs a flavor make-over too.

You could stand on a corner and pick a restaurant from what you see, or you could let us do the work for you. Every Thursday, Patch gives you Bites Nearby. This week's sends you back to a new old classic.

566 San Anselmo Avenue, San Anselmo

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(415) 459-6862; bubbasfinediner.com

Overview:

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When Chef Stephen Simmons left big-city cheffing to open his own retro diner in San Anselmo in 1994 with his then-wife, Beth Casey, Bubba’s Diner, he told me he was going to enjoy doing short-order cooking for his neighbors. I thought, “He’s going to get tired of this eventually.” In fact, he did, but not before he reinvented diner food, making wonderful moist meatloaf, a delicious burger, fried green tomatoes and a chicken fricassee. 

When Simmons and Casey split, she ran the restaurant for awhile; then sold it to John Sarran. Now , Garrett and Ryan Sathre. (Patch shortly after the much-anticipated reopening as Bubba's Fine Diner. I have a different take.) One side of the menu is dedicated mostly to breakfast fare; the other to many kinds of burgers and a few comfort foods.

Unfortunately, the “breakfast-style” potatoes are dry, smashed potatoes griddled, no onion, no peppers.

Their slogan is "Where grease meets organic.” A better one would be “Where taste meets organic.”

Décor:

The chrome black-and-white tiled floor and red diner style have been refreshed, however the white tiles on the floor need a good scrubbing.

Removal of the booths enlarges the seating, but it also means that every time the door opens a cold blast of air chills the diners.

The Drinks:

Liquor license is currently being transferred. Sodas, coffee, tea, ice cream floats are offered.

Appetizers:

There are $6 salads and big ones, like the calamari Thai $14.

Entrees:

One tasty sandwich is the soft shell crab BLT. All sandwiches come with fries, slaw or fruit. The once-famous meatloaf is a tasteless shadow of its former self, accompanied by stiff, dry mashed potatoes.

The crème brulee French toast sounds good in theory, but the caramelized topping, achieved by torching fine sugar, sticks to the diner’s teeth. The toast itself is thick and custardy.

Desserts:

The owners’ mother bakes the apple pie. Although it is spot on, it falls apart under the fork. 

Service:

Ranges from friendly and efficient to forgetful.

Cost:

$11-$17

Handicap accessible:

Yes

Noise level:

Hard to hear when busy.

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