123 Bolinas serves up eco-friendly food and wine

Dominic Phillips loves his town, good libations and the environment. What better way to show his love than to open the best new night spot we've seen in ages. Involved with food behind the scenes for years as an event marketer, 123 Bolinas Artisan Wine, Beer and Food is Phillips' first foray into the world of wine bar proprietorship.

I walked into the bustling, newly opened spot at 7 p.m. on a Saturday; a storefront I remember from my childhood as the original site of The Good Earth Natural Foods – a funky and quintessentially Fairfax original. The Good Earth has since evolved and so has the space.  123 Bolinas is crisp, clean and cozy, with low lying tables and benches, an L-shaped bar and a sleek steel fireplace that beckons you to return on a chilly winter evening. A simple chalkboard lists an expansive offering of wine and beer.  Another lists a small but thoughtful selection of wine-friendly noshes.

Although obvious that sustainability (a hallmark of the Fairfax philosophy) is at the heart of Phillips' creation, it was impossible not to notice there was something markedly different about this place. The wood in the bar is salvage oak; the water brought to every table is presented in repurposed Straus Creamery bottles. But this was a decidedly "un-Fairfax" crowd.

Or so I thought. In speaking to some of my fellow patrons, however, I found that most were indeed locals.

"I've lived here for 27 years. I love Fairfax just the way it is. It's weird and quirky and it makes no apologies about it. But a woman can't live on tofu alone. We needed this," said the woman sitting to my left. As she left, she promised to be back the next night, with friends.

Phillips' passion for his community is obvious. He opened 123 Bolinas for his little village and for himself -- to have a place to enjoy great local wine and food in a comfy, casual setting within a short bicycle ride from home. This is a place that supports local farmers and artisans, respects the planet and gives residents a place to relax, celebrate and invest in as if it were their own. Want to see more Belgian style beer on the menu? Tell him – he wants to hear it.

And how is the beer? And wine? And food?

Chaylee Priete, wine curator at 123 Bolinas (and sommelier for The Slanted Door) has put together a truly inspired collection of eco-friendly wines.  Featured vintners are mostly local and small producers, meaning you'd be hard pressed to find them anywhere else. Wines at 123 Bolinas are broken up into categories such as "lean and crisp whites" and "rich and brooding reds." Fourteen of them are offered by the "smidge," as well as by the glass. Six come by the carafe (small or large) and 27 by the bottle.  Several are offered on tap. These "keg" wines are fast gaining in popularity due to their lower environmental impact (no bottles, spoilage or printed labels). Skeptics should give it a try; the 2006 Terra Seviá Blanc de Blancs from Mendocino will convert you. Wines range in price from $2.50-$4 a smidge, $5-$8 a glass and $10-$21 dollars for a carafe. Bottles range from $24-$82, with a wealth of options under $35.

123's selection of mostly local beers is smaller, but just as thoughtful and diverse. It currently features seven bottled beers and four seasonal tap brews by the half or full pint. My dinner guest loved the Kalifornia Kölsch by San Francisco's Magnolia Brewery -- a luscious and refreshing foil to the evening's lingering heat. Half pints are $2.50, pints are $5 and bottles range from $4-$7.

Phillips worked with consulting chef Vera Ciammetti to create a menu of small, beverage-friendly plates comprised of locally sourced and seasonal produce, meats and cheeses.  The bruschetta was the best example of the simple Italian crostini I've had in ages. The charcuterie was perfectly paired with a glass of Mary Elke Pinot Noir. The two desserts on the menu featured ripe summer fruit. The poached peach with crème fraîche and Tomales Bay goat milk caramel made a great argument for ditching pastries during these warmer months. 

123 Bolinas feels like a sincerely personal effort from Phillips and his collaborators.  This is lovingly produced food and drink at an excellent value brought to you by people with a steadfast commitment to sustainability across the board.

Welcome to the neighborhood!